UNESCO Heritage

Luang Prabang — Big Brother Mouse

Mekong sunsets, green papaya salad, and an hour spent practising English with three students who walked two days to get here.

2
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UNESCO
World Heritage
BBM
Big Brother Mouse

Golden Hour

Sunsets on the Mekong

Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan, a UNESCO World Heritage town where saffron-robed monks collect alms at dawn and the whole riverfront turns amber by five o’clock. The best seat in the house is any wooden terrace facing west — order a Beerlao, watch the slow boats drift, and let the sky do the rest.

The town itself is a living museum: French colonial shophouses alongside gilded wats, night markets spilling down every lane, and the unmistakable scent of tam mak hoong — Lao green papaya salad, pounded fresh in a clay mortar with padaek (fermented fish paste), lime, chilli, and cherry tomatoes. It’s sharper and funkier than its Thai cousin som tam, and once you’ve tried the Lao version you won’t go back.

The River at Dusk

Three Views, One Sunset

Golden sunset over the Mekong River seen from a wooden terrace in Luang Prabang Black and white view of the Mekong River at sunset from a rooftop terrace in Luang Prabang People relaxing at riverside cafes along the Mekong River during sunset in Luang Prabang with slow boats moored nearby
Riverside cafes on the Mekong, Luang Prabang

Big Brother Mouse

Books, English, and Two Days Walking

Big Brother Mouse was founded by Sasha Alyson in 2006 as a literacy project for rural Laos, a country where most villages had never seen a children’s book in their own language. The organisation publishes Lao-language books, distributes them to village schools, and runs a reading room in Luang Prabang where travellers can drop in to practise English with young Lao students.

The format is simple: you sit across a table from a student and talk. No lesson plan, no curriculum — just conversation. The students are there because they want to be. Some of them have walked for two days from hill-tribe villages to reach the city.

Down is 17 and Khmu. Sing and Ying are 20 and Mong. They asked about football, London, and whether it really rains every day in England. I asked how long the walk from their village took. “Two days,” said Sing. “But the bus is faster now.”

The Students

Down, Sing & Ying

Selfie with Down, a 17-year-old Khmu student, at the Big Brother Mouse library in Luang Prabang surrounded by Lao language books Volunteer practising English with a young Lao student at the Big Brother Mouse reading room in Luang Prabang Volunteer posing with Sing and Ying from the Mong ethnic group at Big Brother Mouse library with bookshelves in the background Close-up of a volunteer with Sing and Ying, two 20-year-old Mong students, at Big Brother Mouse in Luang Prabang